A Big Summer Swell pounding Southern California a couple years back. There were some big sets this day. I got sucked over the falls on this wave pictured. I stayed in position as long as I could to get the shot and then tried to swim through the wave mid face. The wave kept pulling me back and eventually there was nothing I could do but get sucked up into the lip and go for the ride.
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Ocean Power
Ocean Power
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Ocean Power
6
68
0
Published: