Prudence magazine commissioned me to write this travel article on Cuba according to their guidelines.

Why?: Famous for salsa and 1950s Buicks, few people know that Cuba also offers idyllic beaches, world-class diving and stunning countryside. Rumour has it that US corporate giants are in secret bidding for Havana’s pretty seafront buildings – and as the indomitable Fidel Castro slips into his eightieth year, things are bound to change sooner or later. Which means there’s never been a better time to explore this charming time warp. And while Cuba isn’t the cheapest exotic destination (see Fidel’s Double Vision box), there are plenty of bargains to be had for the savvy traveller.

With one week

Fly into Havana and spend at least a day strolling around the beautifully restored old quarter, La Habana Vieja. This is the city that the Spanish built, and is packed with sixteenth-century fortresses, quirky churches and leafy squares, all of which are perfectly equipped for a coffee or mojito stop.

When you’ve got your bearings and soaked up plenty of atmosphere, dedicate a few hours to some of Havana’s better museums – such as the Fábrica de Tobacos Partagás (behind the stately Capitolio building), where you can witness the intricate process of cigar-making. Another must is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, especially the building on C/ Trocadero, a splendid showcase of Cuban art, from colonial paintings to contemporary sculpture.

With plenty of culture under your belt, you can kick back and enjoy Havana’s nightlife. To find the best music, simply follow your ears. All the city’s smart restaurants feature live bands (although the Italian bistro La Dominica on C/ O’Reilly is a good place to start). For a taste of something more contemporary (young Cubans love their reggaeton!), check out a club, such as Disco Galicia on C/ Agramonte - or ask a trendy-looking waitress for advice on the latest in-spot.

If the city’s antiquated exhaust pipes leave you dying for fresh air, book a ticket on one of the Viazul tourist coaches to the tiny, unspoilt town of Viñales. While completely accessible, this is some of the most unique and beautiful countryside you’ll ever see – lush, box-shaped hills skirted by pineapple and tobacco fields. Hire a moped and drive up to the local caves; or set out on foot and enjoy the array of fauna – from woodpeckers to piglets.

Having taken a couple of nights to recharge your batteries, swing back to the capital and spend a couple of days exploring Havana’s other districts – such as stately Vedado, whose wide streets are a picture of faded splendour; or Centro Havana, where you can see the uncut version of Havanan life. Hemingway fans will enjoy a trip out to Papa’s house in the southern suburbs, while beach lovers can chill out on the pristine Playas del Oeste, only a 30-minute taxi drive out of town.

Save: Casas particulares (family houses) are a cheap and often characterful accommodation option in Cuba. In Havana, Chez Nous on C/ Brasil (+53 7/862 62 87) rents out three lovely double rooms for around 30€.

Splash out: For the best meal you’ll eat in Cuba, head to Fresas y Chocolate on C/ Concordia, the set of a famous Cuban film of the same name, and a favourite with visiting celebs.

Two weeks

After Viñales, make a detour to Cayo Levisa, a tiny island paradise lapped by turquoise waters. There’s blissfully little activity here, but diving and snorkelling can be arranged, as well as passive participation in massages. At 83€ a night, the only hotel on Cayo Levisa is not the world’s best bargain; but this is one of the only resorts in the country where you can stay right on the beach – and you can cut costs by avoiding the expensive (and lousy) fixed dinner menu.

After breaking your journey in Havana, head down to the UNESCO-protected town of Trinidad, one of the original villas established by the Spanish conquistadores. The well-preserved, pastel-coloured buildings here are a delight in themselves. Take some time to savour the cobbled streets before arranging a trip out to one of the surrounding areas.

Both Havanatur and Cubatur on C/ Antonio Maceo provide day-trips to various points of interest. One of the cheapest and most popular is the Sugar Mills Valley tour, which starts with a train journey through the heart of the old plantations, taking in a visit to a famous watchtower and colonial mansion. Contrasting with the flat sugar fields, the Sierra del Escambray is perfect trekking terrain, dotted with beautiful waterfalls. One of the best ways to reach the forest is on horseback. Rodolfo Bravo (C/ Piro Guinart 174) is a vet and can help you find healthy horses.

Most people end up staying longer then they planned in Trinidad, but if you’re craving a bit of variety and culture, you could head north to Santa Clara, where Che Guevara is buried. The Memorial al Che museum celebrates the life of the world’s most handsome hero through a series of photos and personal possessions. For a more complete picture of the revolution, hire a guide.

Save: If you can’t afford to stay on an island, Playa Ankón, a white-sand beach with plenty of seclusion, is an 8-kilometre taxi-ride from Trinidad. Shared between four, the fare works out at just 2€ each.

Splash out: The number of attractions in such close proximity makes the Trinidad area a good one for hiring a car. Havanautos has branches in every major town; prices start at around 65€ a day.

Three weeks or more

There’s plenty to justify a longer trip to Cuba – particularly if you’re going to be there in July, which is when Santiago de Cuba, the country’s second city, celebrates its carnival. From Trinidad, take a night bus directly to Santiago; or else break your trip in one of the laid-back, non-touristy cities of Camagüey or Holguín.

Even outside carnival time, Santiago is the Cuban city for music, with the Casa del la Trova on C/ Heredia being good bets for quality live acts. By day Santiago has plenty to offer too. The area around the central square, Parque Céspedes, houses some interesting buildings, a favourite being the Museo Emilio Bacardí Moreau, which doubles as an anthropology museum and art gallery. To see the former mansion of the famous rum family, take a cab out to Avenida Manduley in the east of the city. This district is well worth a visit for the lingering glamour of its peaceful streets.

The sub-tropical countryside surrounding Santiago is stunning and could keep you in the area for a few days, but make sure to leave time to visit Baracoa, an awe-inspiring six-hour journey away. An unprepossessing town of low tin-roofed buildings, Baracoa’s beauty lies in its tranquil jungle setting. Be sure to arrange an excursion to the table-top mountain of El Yunque, where you can spot hummingbirds and look down on miles of rolling rainforest. What better way to work up an appetite for huge portions of the regions specialities: lobster and chocolate?

Save: Casa del Chocolate in Baracoa is one of the few places (always check) where you can pay in Cuban pesos, with a huge helping of coconut ice cream working out at about 20 cents.

Splash out: Cuba boasts some fantastic diving sites, notably off the Isla de la Joventud and around Santa Lucia (in the Camagüey province), the only place in the world where you can dive with bull sharks.

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When to go: With a constant tropical climate, there’s no bad time to visit Cuba, although summer can be a bit stifling, and there’s more chance of being caught in a hurricane.

How to get there: If you’re going for two weeks or less, it’s worth looking into a package deal – especially if you can set off last minute, when all-inclusive holidays plummet. Otherwise flights start at around 550€.