Princess Seam bodice with Back Yokes and Two Different Sleeves
Front
This project was done for learning purposes such as understanding the differences to sewing wool and cotton, gaining hands-on experience with sewing a princess bodice and different sleeves, and sewing different types of buttons.
Left Sleeve
The left sleeve is slightly gathered at the cap with an one inch hem. This hem was done with a contrasting thread to ensure that I was steady while sewing. In addition to that, I made sure to start the sewing at the underarm so the reverse stitch lines could be hidden well.
Right Sleeve
This puff sleeve was done by gathering the fabric around the cap and creating an elastic case with the hem. The hem was folded and sewn closed with one opening to feed the elastic through. Once again, the reverse stitch lines were hidden by starting them at the underarm.
Back
Looking at the back, you can see that there are two different types of yokes. The one done on the wool required little incisions that allowed me to manipulate the fabric in order to create the smooth curve. The yoke created on the cotton needed a ninety degree cut to create the sharp point. Other than the yokes, the two back pieces are connected with buttons, which requires understanding of the buttonholer and spacing between the buttons.
Buttons and Hook and Eye
At the top of the back, I hand-stitched a hook and eye to ensure that the corners of the back pieces will be secure. I also learned to sew on different types of buttons. The first button is a simple flat button with two holes, and the second button is a shank button, both sewn on normally.
Buttons and Buttonholer
The white button is a two hole flat button that was hand-sewn to create distance from the garment. These buttons are usually used for coats that have thick fur, in order to give room for the fabric. The black button is a four hole flat button, and it was made for a vertical button hole unlike the first few.
Inside Facing
Looking at the inside of the garment, you can see that the edges were overlocked and that is has a half inch hem that was pick-stitched. In addition to that, the neckline facing is securely attached, and it extends to the button area and all the way to the hem to act as the button placket. This is done on both the wool and cotton side to allow security for the buttons.
